Does the New York Times Appreciate Rosé Wine?

I typically enjoy Eric Asimov’s wine articles in the New York Times, but I have to respectfully disagree with his comments this week regarding rosé wine, “Basking With Rosés.” Asimov says: “With few exceptions, rosés are simple wines…” and “Most rosés are like beach reading…” and “Rosé is the quintessential daytime wine, perfect for outdoors, wonderful in the summer.” I believe that rosé can be a much more serious wine than he suggests, its versatility is the main reason it is now enjoyed year-round, and serious wine drinkers consume much more rosé than Asimov cares to admit.

I also found it interesting that an article about rosé could be written without mentioning Lirac, or Tavel, the AOC in France’s Rhone Valley dedicated exclusively to rosé production. For those who would agree that Tavel is serious wine, but argue that it is an anomaly in the world of rosé production, I would remind them that about 400,000 cases of Tavel are produced every year, and plenty can be found for under $20 a bottle (Asimov’s benchmark for his article). Lirac is another Rhone AOC that consistently produces superb, complex rosés.

Other rosés that are a bit more pricey, but worth every penny are Bruno Clair’s Marsannay Rosé (he also makes red and white Marsannay), Robert Sinskey’s Vin Gris, Tablas Creek’s rosé from Paso Robles, and Provence’s Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé, quite possibly the finest rosé in the world.

Some of my other favorites for under $15, include Yangarra from Australia’s McClaren Vale region (from Rhone varietals grenache and syrah) and the many, many fine examples from Spain, including Bodegas Castano (from Yecla) and Artazu (from Navarra).

Those who only tend to enjoy rosé on the porch, the beach or during the summer, are missing out on year-round delicious food pairings. Rosé is easily the most versatile food wine, is available in many different styles from many diverse grapes, and is produced in just about all serious wine regions of the world.

~ by Thomas on June 14, 2009.

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